My house pest is going to be on a talk show tonight:
"Tonight I will be a guest of Gloria Neal’s (usually on CBS) on 850/ KOA, Denver ’s premier talk radio channel. Talking about Everest, Tibet, Adventure, and, of course, the NEED for Outward Bound in this day and age…tune in live if you are in town, or streaming on the internet if you are out of town! http://www.850koa.com/pages/listen.html "
One thing I have to say about HP2.0 is that he is an amazing person, and it's well worth the time, if you have it, to listen to him tonight.
Besides the work he is doing to educate people on what is really going on in Tibet, I also recently found out about his experiences as a guide. I've been reading the book High Crimes by Michael Kodas. Although some of the book is bitchy, it's worth a read if you have any interest in mountaineering.
Kodas has little flattering to say about most mountaineers, but every mention of Luis is positive. In Chapter 11 he recounts a story about how Luis was guiding Ama Dablam and arrived at Camp 2 to find climbers in his sleeping bags eating his food.
In Chapter 16, Kodas recounts how, at Camp 2 on Everest in 2003, a sick sherpa named Karma Gylzen Sherpa was attempting to reach camp. Noticing he was struggling, Luis, Willie Benegas, and Willi Prittie went to check up on him. He was really sick. The expedition team that Karma was working for was more concerned about their summit bids than helping a sick sherpa. They (Luis, Willie and Willi) tried to recruit other climbers on the mountain to help with the rescue but no one would help, including the base camp manager for the expedition Karma was supporting. Luis ended up assisting the twin mountaineers Willie and Damian Benegas, who had just finished an incredible ascent of Nuptse, to get the sherpa down, even though the twins were physically spent from their climb.
Luis is quoted in the book as saying "All I remember is running. Running at almost 22,000 feet to try and help a man I had never known before this day." Luis provided what medical help he could, and two Italian climbers also joined in the rescue.
Karma's situation worsened by the second. Luis started performing CPR on him and refused to give up on saving his life even after the other climbers told him that they were now doing a body recovery rather than a rescue. When they arrived near base camp the climbers that refused to help in the rescue tried to give them tea and food when they arrived but the rescue crew just shoved past them. I can't imagine what must have been going through Luis' head that night.
The team that hired Karma promised to start a fund to build a hospital in his honor. At the time of publication of High Crimes the hospital construction had not yet begun. Bullshit promises seem to be the way of most mountaineers.
The other interesting thing, at least to me, about this story is that I was dating someone on the mountain at the time of this incident. He constantly brags about how he helped rescue people on the mountain. Luis, however, never talks about what he has done. Further, that person I was dating is not mentioned specifically in the book, but there is some negative stuff about his expedition team.
After reading High Crimes you will definitely have a very jaded impression of the people who climb in the Himalayas. It's nice to know there is at least one guy out there that gives a shit about people.
Luis currently works with Outward Bound to set up corporate programs. His web site is http://www.luisbenitez.com/. Check it out!
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o learn more about the Sherpas of the Mt. Everest region, read Beyond the Summit by Linda LeBlanc. Sherpas are the true heroes of Everest. Without their assistance, very few would reach the summit. Details of Sherpa culture and religion are interwoven in a tale of romance and high adventure. The story has something for everyone: a love affair between an American journalist and Sherpa guide, conflict between generations as the modern world challenges centuries of tradition, an expedition from the porter’s point of view.
ReplyDeleteBelow are selections from reviews. To read the complete ones and excerpts go to www.beyondthesummit-novel.com
Beyond the Summit, is the rare gem that shows us the triumphs and challenges of a major climb from the porter’s point of view. The love of two people from diverse cultures is the fiery centerpiece of a novel that leads its readers through harshly beautiful and highly dangerous territory to the roof of the world. Malcolm Campbell, book reviewer
Conflict and dialog keep this gripping story of destiny, romance and adventure moving from the first page to the last paragraph. LeBlanc has a genius for bonding her readers and her characters. I found I was empathizing in turn with each character as they faced their own personal crisis or trauma.
Richard Blake for Readers Views.
A gripping, gut-twisting expedition through the eyes of a porter reveals the heart and soul of Sherpas living in the shadows of Everest. EverestNews.com
A hard-hitting blend of adventure and romance which deserves a spot in any serious fiction collection. Midwest Book Review
LeBlanc is equally adept at describing complex, elusive emotions and the beautiful, terrifying aspect of the Himalayan Mountains. Boulder Daily Camera
LeBlanc’s vivid description of the Himalayas and the climbing culture makes this a powerful read. Rocky Mt News Pick of the Week
A rich adventure into the heart of the Himalayan Kingdom. Fantastic story-telling from one who has been there. USABookNews.com
This is the book to read before you embark on your pilgrimage to Nepal. The author knows and loves the people and the country, and makes you feel the cold thin air, the hard rocks of the mountains, the tough life of the Sherpa guides, and you learn to love them too. This is a higly literate, but also very readable book. Highly recommended.”
– John (college professor)
Memorable characters and harrowing encounters with the mountains keep the action moving with a vibrant balance of vivid description and dialog. Literary Cafe Host, Healdsburg, CA
This superbly-crafted novel will land you in a world of unimaginable beauty, adventure, and romance. The love story will keep you awake at night with its vibrant tension and deep rich longing. Wick Downing, author of nine novels
Such vividly depicted images of the Everest region and the Sherpa people are the perfect scenario for the romance and adventure feats narrated. It’s a page-turner, so engrossing you end up wanting to visit Nepal! Not just novel, but perfect for those seeking to get acquainted with the culture of this country.
By Claudia Fournier (América, Bs. As., Argentina)
Available through Barnes and Noble, Borders, amazon.com, Chesslerbooks.com, and the web site