first lead of 2009

Tonight at BRC I did my first lead. It was my last climb of the night too. Left some skin on the floor of the gym, but I'm sure they'll have it vacuumed up by morning.

I forgot how much I enjoy climbing. Tonight made me remember how much fun Gadget, Liz, and I had climbing together. We met 3 days a week and would climb for 3 hours. Gadg was the best coach ever. I had picked up some bad habits yarding my way up climbs more due to strength than actual ability. He tortured me for weeks, lowering me off any climb the second I did something wrong (my two favorite bad habits: mantling up something when I didn't need to and jumping for a hold so I wouldn't have to push up on my right foot). I was missing him tonight as I chicken winged some stupid hold instead of just moving my arm up. Then I was on another climb with a crimpy left hold and my ex broken finger was throbbing so I just jumped for the next hold rather than moving on the crimp.

I don't know if Gadg was there in spirit, but I could hear him yelling in my head "Awwww, Franki! Franki! What are you DOING? That's it! You're lowered!"

Dr. S tried to get me to climb this crimpy little shit show of a route, but I refused to as the start for feet was a starfish. And I am inclined to beware of starfish. The first three hands were all slopey things you have to crimp. Uh huh. He kept saying "but the holds get good up there" and I was like but I have to get UP THERE first. I held my arms up to his face and said "Oh look, my forearms are giving you the finger".

My favorite moment of the night was when I was climbing an overhang with a russian guy climbing next to me. I was about to pull through the overhang on this hold that looked liked Dolly Parton's breasts when suddenly the rusky peeled off. I had a vision of his ass connecting with my face and made Dr. S lower me until the Russian was done.

There's suffering in climbing, and then there's suffering.

The evening ended well with pancakes, but I think bio freeze is also in order.