if you didn't break something you aren't really surfing

Monday I was waiting out in the line up at Olas Altas (water was confused, waves were crap) and FH, who had just ridden in was like "good one behind you!" So I laid down and started to turn my board (I was facing out to sea) but the wave suddenly jacked up and was rolling right at me. I was sideways and looked at FH. He looked horrified. I thought "jump off the board" but, since I'm cocky, I then thought "I can catch this thing!"

Needless to say I got slammed by the wave and ended up in the washing machine (never go into a wave sideways on a surf board). Rolled over 5 times before surfacing (that wave was by far the biggest, over 6 feet, and fastest of the day) and miraculously I was totally okay. I didn't even swallow any water.

...except that, after walking 5 miles to and from another beach this afternoon, I realized that (I think) I broke my toe. FH thinks I hit it on the surf board fin. He said "you're like that doll in your room, made outta paper".

Anyway, we're having a great time and food as usual is amazing. For dinner monday (I had to limp to the restaurant) we had chicken tostadas and the grand total for dinner for both of us was $4.50. Everything was home made.


And, here's a pic of my toe.

Took a few days off surfing - going to tape my toe tomorrow and see how it goes

 Tomorrow I'm going to post some pics of the shenanigans that went on tonight. Our friends down here in Maz took us to a batting cage to hit some balls. The place is also a bar and they didn't seem to mind that no one was wearing a helmet in the cage and I was in there filming with my gopro....